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Paris Couture: Maison Margiela Craftsman; Elie Saab and Julie de Libran – News


The world is a stage and not as diverse as the couture in Paris. A place where Gibraltar-born designers create couture for the Belgian Maison. Phoenician masters dream of floral fantasy in Beirut. And the fashion godfathers of young moms guide young students and allow them to work on the actual Parisian calendar collection.Three contrasting designers shown in Champs Elysees, Saint-Germain and Beirut.

In other words, take a look at the Maison’s John Galliano Margiela Craftsmanship; Elie Saab And Julie de Libran.

Maison Margiela Craftsmanship: Daphne du Maurier’s Dismantled Maiden

Sometimes it felt more like Daphne From Du Maurier Maison Margiela Craftsmanship when John Galliano unveiled his latest collection in a show film at the Champs Elysees cinema.

Instead of focusing on production, Galiano hired Olivier Dahan to direct the potential of the longest fashion collection film in history.

Dahan, famous for the director Ravian Rose And Blessings of Monaco, Sure, made a handsome product with a title Folk horror story..

The dark thread about the cliff-top village collapsing into the sea was characterized by dozens of handsome, slender fishermen and fish wives roaming the shore.I think it was disassembled Rebecca To French man’s creek..

The actual feature film lasted 70 minutes without dialogue, but began with Galiano providing a useful explanation of his ideas and techniques. At Margiela’s atelier in the 19th arrondissement of Paris, he worked with his staff on drapes, editors and several still images of him.

John’s biggest idea was to use images of Delft pottery to create atmospheric patchwork fabrics. Another big project for the Gibraltar-born Couturier was especially denim upcycling. After tearing, chopping, and peeling the pockets, the entire lot was put into a huge dyeing machine. The result was sewn into the costumes of a restored drama, such as grand gowns, frivolous dresses, and padded jackets worn by gals who seem to know the interior of multiple taverns.

Maison Margiela Artisanal 2021-Photo: Courtesy of Maison Margiela

His finest composition was a simple pod made of shards of glass, but full of crevices and spikes, it looked like a dangerous seaweed.

After finding a pirate galleon rolling in the fog, our hero Cabin Boy wears a matching glass crown for no apparent reason before filling it. To discover.

Other models panic when the entire tree germinates from the mouth and the entire wall turns into bubbling blood.

At the finale, locals watch the Druid Bacchanalia and the clan chiefs floating in the sea at the burning funeral crematorium.

Original and provocative like all Galiano collections, but too long and exaggerated. It’s not half the adaptation of Du Maurier’s novels and movies.

Elie Saab: Buds of Hope from Beirut

Want Even the most difficult moments of this season’s message from Elie Saab will spring forever.

During the pandemic, he was primarily based in his native Lebanon and was one of the most difficult times, despite the devastation of the capital’s center by a massive fertilizer explosion 10 months ago. It has created a new taste.

Therefore, Saab named his collection “Buds of Hope”. Introduced in a video of a fantastic behind-the-scenes and bleacher-fenced studio shot show, behind which his towering model laughed and rumors in a festive open-back floral ball gown. ..

Before the action moves to the colonnade studio and sunlight, it’s better to explain the airy embroidery, as Erie’s carefully selected couture team demonstrated their skills.

“We are all waiting for spring to bloom again in our world. It’s about time, so there are lots of petals and flowers,” Erie explained in a studio zoom.

Even if the dress was an ivory crepe column, it was finished with chiffon peony, fabric rose and tulle petals, especially with a vibrant display.

“I wanted a certain amount of volume, so the wings were treated like rose petals and delicately stabbed,” Saab added.

Elie Saab-Haute Couture Fall / Winter 2021-2022-Photo: Provided by Elie Saab

The Phoenician couturier, which consists of multiple crinolines built with a bright inner frame, can better capture his view. Seen in a poetic fashion film directed by Felipe Sanguinetti.

Clothes that need great opportunities, such as all contemporary fashion classicism, noble weddings, golden balls, and the red carpet for the awards ceremony. Climax in a faded lime wedding dress studded with stunning crystals that the princess shouted to buy it.

All of them are markedly juxtaposed with the experience of difficult times by Lebanon.

“Here in Beirut, it was very difficult politically and financially, but we have to rebuild, and we will,” said this proud Lebanese.

Like many international designers, Saab suspects he will bring his ready-to-wear in October during the Parisian season he traditionally shows.

“I miss Paris beaucoup.. It hurts my heart, “he sighed. “I wanted to come, but I want to come in January. Due to this delta variant, everything could soon be in danger again.”

Julie de Libran: Godmother and Grandmother

It’s nice to see a talented designer undoing something. A good example: Julie de Libran, Godmother of fashion design in Istituto Marangoni Paris Fashion College.

Working with students, De Libran upcycles some existing ideas and looks from the debut independent collection of the fascinating collection exhibited in the garden of a modern mid-century apartment in Saint-Germain. did.

The look, excerpted from her debut collection, was reinvented in layered colors prepared by her students in a college atelier when the model parade about Julie unveiled a black crepe prob.

“I wanted my students to learn the discipline and beauty of working in a luxury couture. This season is to celebrate the lucky Savoie Ferre we can work with here in Paris. And my Communication from my grandmother, “deLibran explained.

Julie de Libran-Haute Couture Fall / Winter 2021-2022-Photo: Courtesy of Julie de Libran

Experienced designers have also set foot on the new 19M Shangri-La, a specialist in northern Paris and haute couture. Chanel We provide professional skills to designers of both independent and major global brands.

Like a beautiful lace silk lace from Julie’s grandma’s wardrobe, which has been maintained on newspaper pages since 1964. Julie was hand-crafted in Paloma and recut, redecorated and reinvented as the best evening dress. A prestigious 19M couture atelier. Or a fairly fab beige silk tunic adorned with gold lace and sequins by another 19M mark, Maison Lesage.

“I live virtually at 19M,” deLibran confessed. And of course, in Marangoni.

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